Friday, March 6, 2009

Pattern: Top-Down Endpaper Mittens

I had never owned a pair of mittens before I knitted these, and I am notorious for not following patterns exactly, so I decided to invent my own (with help from a few patterns, listed below) top-down mittens for multiple reasons: A) I despise increasing! I knew I wanted a thumb gusset, but wanted the nice clean look of k2togs and ssks, and would have to achieve this by starting at the top. And B) I love short-row shaping. It looks neat and it feels great on fingers and toes.

This pattern was adapted to my liking with references to:
Meilynne Travis' Mittens From The Top and Eunny Jang's Endpaper Mitts.



Materials:
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Stroll (75% superwash merino/25% nylon, 231 yards/50g ball) in Main Color (MC) and Contrasting Color (CC), one skein each.
  • Needles: One set of 5 size 2.25mm/US1 double-pointed needles (adjust needles to obtain gauge, if needed). It is possible to knit both at once on a long circular(s), but it may be trickier with the gussets and fair-isle.
  • Supplies: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, row counter.

    Gauge: 38 stitches & 48 rows per 10cm/4in (or 9.5 stitches & 12 rows per 2.5cm/1in) stockinette. NOTE: Please judge your gauge with Measurement A, shown below. If it is much different from the one written, go up or down a needle size accordingly. It is much more difficult to change the pattern itself, as it is based on a 60-stitch round.

    Keep in mind this is a try-as-you-go kind of pattern, so you need not follow my directions exactly. I'm just writing what I did for my personal mittens.

    I measured my hand in these three places:



    A. Around the widest part of my palm: 19cm/7.5in = 60 stitches around.
    B. Around the widest part of my thumb: 6cm/2.5in = 21 stitches around.
    C. Length of thumb: 5.5cm/2in = 24 rows.

    NOTE: I did not measure the length of my hand/fingers because I could try the mitten on as I knit.

    Directions:
    Using provisional cast-on, CO 32 sts in waste yarn or CC. Break yarn, passing the end through the last loop loosely and knotting the end so you know which end to unravel when the time comes. Begin next row in MC: p all sts, beginning with the second stitch on the needle and leaving one off the other end; 30 sts on needle.

    You will begin short-row shaping using wraps as you would a sock toe.

    R1: (RS) K29 sts, w&t.
    R2: (WS) P28 sts, w&t.

    Continue as above, wrapping and turning the last stitch next to the previous wrapped stitch until 12 sts remain unwrapped (9 wrapped stitches on each side) and begin picking up the wraps and working them together like so:

    R1: (RS) K12 sts, pick up wrap and k the st and its wrap together (k2tog), w&t.
    R2: (WS) P13 sts, pick up wrap and p the st and its wrap together (p2tog), w&t.
    R3: (RS) K14 sts, pick up both wraps and k them together with the stitch (k3tog), w&t.
    R4: (WS) P15 sts, pick up both wraps and p them together with the st (p3tog), w&t.

    Continue as above until you have k3tog the last sts and wraps you can.

    Carefully, starting with the knotted end, unravel the waste yarn and pick up all the stitches; 60 sts. Divide evenly among 4 DPNs and PM at round beginning.

    K one round even, picking up the last wrapped stitch and its wraps and k them together.

    K 6 rounds even.

    Join CC and begin Endpaper Chart, below, three times around mitten. Repeat chart only once. Be careful how tightly you knit this... fair-isle is not stretchy!


    Endpaper Chart © Eunny Jang


    Break CC and k 20 rounds even in MC (fewer or more rows to fit... it should JUST touch where your thumb meets your hand).

    Thumb Gusset:
    Next round: k 29 sts, place marker, k1. Using previous waste yarn, provisionally CO 20 sts on unused DPN. Slip the first and last sts of newly cast-on sts off the needle; 18 new sts. K 9 sts of the newly cast-on onto the same needle. Move the next 9 newly cast-on stitches onto the third needle, k1, place marker, k (29 sts) to end of round; 78 sts on needles.

    K 2 rounds even.

    Decrease round: Work to first marker, slip marker, ssk next two sts, k to last 2 sts before next marker, k2tog.

    Continue previous 3 rounds until there are 2 sts remaining between the markers on last decrease round.

    K 2 more rounds even.

    Next round: K until there are 2 sts remaining on second needle, one on each side of the marker. Remove markers; 60 sts.

    K 1 round even.

    Begin 2x2 rib for 35 rows.

    R 36: double-wrap every stitch in pattern, or *k1, yo, k1, yo, p1, yo, p1, yo* to end.
    R 37: Sl 2 sts purlwise (do not knit at all on this round!) and slip first st over the second and off the needle. Sl next st and continue BO like so. Break yarn.

    Thumb:
    Unravel waste yarn and place live sts on 2 dpns. Pick up and k 3 sts along hand of glove; 21 sts. Complete round.

    K 23 rounds even (fewer or more if your thumb is short/long. Before you decrease, it should reach almost to the tip of your thumb).

    R 24: *k2tog* to end, excluding last st; 11 sts.
    R 25: *k2tog* to last 3 sts, k3tog; 5 sts.

    Break yarn and draw through remaining sts.

    Finishing:
    Weave in ends, block if necessary.

    Enjoy! :)
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